Smoked Salmon with Cream

Doesn't that sound good?


This continues my series of recipes from my most recent cooking class at the Institute of Culinary Education, Vive la Bretagne. If you're looking for a refined appetizer or even a small meal for your next dinner, this is a winner. As if smoked salmon wasn't delicious enough--here, the salmon is stuffed with an herbed whipped cream made from crème fraiche, and garnished with marinated fennel and shallot confit.

Not too shabby on the whole.

The Recipe:


6 slices of smoked salmon
3 regular-sized fennel bulbs
8 ounces lemon juice
6 tbsps extra-virgin olive oil
4 shallots
1/2 cup dry red wine
1 cup ruby Port
1 thyme sprig
1 tsp sugar
1 quart crème fraiche
Chives
1 tsp cider vinegar
Salt and Cayenne pepper to taste

First, wash and clean the fennel. Chop off the leaves just up to the bulb and remove the roots. Using a mandolin or a sharp knife, slice the fennel bulbs very thinly (width-wise) so that you have thin slices. Layer the fennel slices along the bottom of a 9"x13" pan. Stir the lemon juice and olive oil together and pour over the fennel in the pan. Season with salt and cayenne pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours, to marinate.

To make the shallot confit, preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Combine the Port, wine, thyme, sugar, and shallots--cut in 1/4" thick slices--in a small gratin dish. Cover with foil and bake for an hour, then remove foil and bake for another 15 minutes or until the liquid has almost evaporated. Let cool to room temperature, and discard the thyme sprig.

Now, for the pièce de resistance--the salmon with cream. Whisk the crème fraiche as you would whisk whipping cream, until it forms soft peaks. Then add the salt, cayenne pepper, chives, vinegar, and half of the shallot confit.

Now for the tricky part: presentation. This is my way of plating the dish, but don't hesitate to be creative with your presentation. To fill the salmon slices with the cream, take a paper cup and cut off the topmost ring to use as a mold. Place the ring on the plate and drape salmon slices over the edges, so that they touch the plate but will be able to be folded over. Then, put the cream in the center of the ring of salmon, and fold the pieces over. Remove the ring. Place a few slices of the marinated fennel on the side, and garnish with additional shallot confit. Garnish with thyme sprigs and lemon rind curls.

Salade de Roscoff: Salad of Warm, Seasonal Vegetables

As I had mentioned in my previous post, I attended my second class at the Institute of Culinary Education. The class, entitled "Vive la Bretagne: Brittany's Signature Dishes" gave a soup to nuts--or in this case, fish to flan--overview of the fresh and crisp cooking of France's northwestern peninsula.

The first dish from the series was a Salade de Roscoff, or a salad of warm, seasonal vegetables in a vinaigrette. This salad features leeks, turnips, fennel, carrots, onions, and potatoes at their very best: intact, colorful, and filled with flavor and nutrients. This dish celebrates each vegetable in its natural form, preserving the shape and manipulating it minimally.

The Recipe:

12 baby carrots

12 pearl onions

6 baby fennel

2 leeks (young, if possible)

12 baby turnips

12 fingerling potatoes

3 quarts chicken stock

For the vinaigrette:

1 shallot

Chives (to taste)

1 garlic clove

2 tbsps cider vinegar

1 tbsp dijon mustard

3 tbsps extra virgin olive oil

First, you will need to clean and peel all of your vegetables. Before you reach for that peeler (I see you--STOP), put it back and get a small, sharp knife. As I mentioned above, this dish celebrates vegetables in their natural and unaltered state (with a little sauce). Since most of the vegetables we are using are small, baby vegetables, they are delicate and we must treat them as such. 

Here are instructions for peeling and preparing each vegetable in the salad:

Baby fennel: First, wash your fennel and pat dry. Then cut off the majority of the fluffy green stalk, leaving 2 or 3 springs for garnish. Halve the fennel lengthwise, and carefully remove their root bulbs. 

Baby leeks: Baby leeks are leeks, but smaller (as in they look like scallions). You will not need to rinse them, as you would with typical leeks, as they will not have much sand in them. Rather, carefully cut off the roots, and then peel off the outermost layer of skin, pulling the green leaf and removing the exterior of the leek. Cut off the dark green stems and rinse the leeks.

Baby turnips: Cut off the stems and the roots and rinse. Using the sharp edge of your knife, delicately peel the turnips so that you remove only a thin layer of skin.

Baby carrots: Cut off the stems, and peel carefully, as you peeled the turnips (with the edge of a knife).

Fingerling potatoes: Rinse the skin. Do not peel the skin off, as it is filled with nutrients. Just halve them lengthwise.







Now that you have prepared all of your vegetables, it is time to blanch them in the chicken stock. Blanching is when you place vegetables in boiling water (or, in this case, stock), remove them after a short time, and then plunge them into ice water. The ice water halts the cooking process and ensures that vegetables are colorful and retain their nutrients and flavor. Prepare an ice bath, and then blanch each vegetable.

While they are sitting in the ice bath, make your vinaigrette:

Dice the shallots and chives. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil and vinegar, and then slowly incorporate the mustard, chives, shallots, are garlic, whisking well.

To finish off, toss the warm vegetables in the vinaigrette and serve on a warmed plate.

Vive la Bretagne : ICE Revisited

As some of you may remember, I had the pleasure of taking my very first cooking class this past Fall. Ever since attending "Elegant Autumn Desserts" with Chef Vicki Wells at the Institute for Culinary Education in downtown Manhattan, I'd been aching to go back and try my hand on some other delicacies.

The Institute for Culinary Education is located on 23rd street between 5th and 6th avenue, and offers a full range of recreational cooking classes for those interested in cooking, baking, wine and bar-tending, and cheese.

This time around--motivated by the gift of two cooking classes of my choice for Christmas--I decided to opt for a cooking class as opposed to a baking class. People always ask me what I prefer--cooking or baking. I'd have to say that I prefer baking, because it just comes to me more naturally. There seems to me that there is less room for error, and who could say no to working with ingredients like cream, chocolate, and sugar? I do enjoy cooking though, even though it does not come as easily to me.

This time around, I chose Vive la Bretagne, a celebration of tradition Bréton cuisine. The class was taught by Chef Hervé Riou who is an ambassador of Breton cuisine in the United States, representing the Union Culinaire Bretonne. My motivations for taking this particular class were twofold: first, my family originates from Brittany, the northwestern peninsula of France that projects into the Atlantic Ocean, and, second, I was looking to acquire some tricksy cooking skills.

The class was limited to 20 people and was spread over four hours on a Monday morning. The price was reasonable, considering the time in the kitchen, the price of the materials, and the fact that you got to take bags of goodies home. (I have what must amount to three rabbits in my fridge.)

Within our four hours we made Salade de Roscoff (salad of warm seasonal vegetables in an herb vinaigrette), Timbale de saumon aux herbes et fenouil marinée (smoked salmon served with marinated fennel in lemon and creme fouette with shallots confit), Soupe de poisson cotriade (traditional fish soup), Medaillons de veau à la mode d'Iffiniac (sautéed veal medaillons with Muscadet, onion and grated cheese), Coquille St Jacques à la Concarnoise (pan-seared scallops served with a ragout of chanterelles or wild mushrooms and a vermouth reduction), Lapin sauté aux herbes de Bretagnes (rabbit braised with mushroom shallots parsley and a white wine-herb infusion), Flan de St Enogat (flan with marc of cider and apples or pears caramalized), and Traou Mad (traditional butter cake).

Each one was relatively simple to make, and came out looking and tasting divine. Each used tools and ingredients that are easily available and that shouldn't be too much of a drain on the budget.

Look for each recipe as I remake them in the confines of my home kitchen in the next few weeks!

Health Kick: Ratatouille

I know at least some of you out there have resolved, with the beginning of the New Year, to be healthier. Now, you can go to the gym and do as many hot-rock yoga classes as you like, but we all know that a quality diet is the backbone of a healthy lifestyle.

I am the first one to admit that I am not the healthiest of people. I mean, I own and use a copy of Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking for God's sake. The butter in that book alone is enough to put a trainer in a coma. I'm also allergic to exercise, though I am an avid walker and have dabbled in running and yoga.

So, the moral of the story is that I am always looking for recipes that can help me incorporate more vegetables into my diet. This one, from my friend Deirdre, really did the trick.

It's a quick and flavorful dish that's delicious hot or cold, and that makes a colorful addition to your meals. The combination of the healthy fat in olive oil, and the nutrients present in the peppers, squash, and eggplant will make even the most carnivorous person's mouth water.

The Recipe:

1/4 cup olive oil, plus more as needed
1 1/2 cups finely-diced yellow onion
1 tsp minced garlic
2 cups medium diced eggplant, skin on
1/2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1 cup diced green bell peppers
1 cup diced red bell peppers
1 cup diced zucchini squash
1 cup diced yellow squash
1 1/2 cups peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes
1 tbsp thinly sliced fresh basil leaves
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Set a large 12-inch sauté pan over medium heat and add the olive oil. Once the oil is hot, add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly caramelized, about 5 to 7 minutes. Then, add the eggplant and thyme to the pan and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is partially cooked, about 5 minutes. Add the green and red peppers, zucchini, and squash and continue to cook for an additional 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, basil, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste, and cook for a final 5 minutes. Stir well to blend and serve either hot or at room temperature.

Happy New Year!

Wishing you all a healthy, happy, and prosperous New Year, filled with good food and even better friends! Cheers!